Starting Breeding Daylilies In Ecuador
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* Dark scapes. These lines are serendipitously rust resistant. With the evergreen Sir Blackstem (which carries melon), I should be able to use my dormant introductions. | * Dark scapes. These lines are serendipitously rust resistant. With the evergreen Sir Blackstem (which carries melon), I should be able to use my dormant introductions. | ||
* Striped flowers. Start with Yankee Pinstripes, put onto group 1 solid colors, reds and whites. | * Striped flowers. Start with Yankee Pinstripes, put onto group 1 solid colors, reds and whites. | ||
+ | == Seedlings == | ||
+ | * Seed will be dry-stored, and scarified in a bottle with some sandpaper. Cold wet storage is not required and reduces potential storage time from years to months. | ||
+ | * Seed will be direct sown (though some will be sown in pots then transplanted as a comparison.) | ||
+ | * Seedling spacing needs to be experimented with to find good solutions for here. Dense sowing followed by transplanting might be a good solution. | ||
+ | * Seedlings that are weak or with visible rust or poor foliage can be immediately culled. | ||
+ | If I am lucky, I will be able to spot a difference in growth between dormants and evergreens at a few months. I will have to mark my guesses and then see how they behave. I have some Helicopter (a hard dormant in MA and Latacunga) as a comparison. | ||
== Evaluation == | == Evaluation == | ||
+ | I need to come up with a system of marking a label in the garden with when flowers are open and when (or if) foliage senesces. | ||
====Clump==== | ====Clump==== | ||
I want tight clumps that shade the soil around them to suppress weeds, the way Stella De Oro does. | I want tight clumps that shade the soil around them to suppress weeds, the way Stella De Oro does. |